![]() 08/19/2020 at 00:24 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Oppo, there is a significant amount of rust on the frame of my 2000 Tundra. Not enough to warrant an exchange by Toyota, but more than enough to make me worried.
One year, I went over the frame with a wire wheel attached to a drill, chisel, brush - everything I had to scrape of as much as I could. Then, I sprayed fluid film over it. But, this is something you need to yearly and I’m, frankly, too lazy. I’ve researched por30 and it seems like a valid option, but removing the rust, spraying with prep stuff, rinsing, spraying with Por30 seems like a lot of work and I haven’t been able to force myself to do it
Any ideas on my options where I could pay someone? Line X bed liner people offer Valugard Rust inhibitor service, but I have no clue if this is something that would work on an already rusty frame.
I think this truck could last me til I die, except for the frame.
What does the hive mind think?
![]() 08/19/2020 at 00:56 |
|
I have used POR-15 (I assume you didn’t mean POR30?) and have recently switched to Corroseal. I read that POR-15 is so rigid that it microscopically cracks and allows rust to reform under it. My personal experience seems to back that up.
I have a lot of experience with rust in Wisconsin and my take is that it’s hopeless unless you cut out and replace metal.
I’m afraid you’re stuck with doing the work. Add in that you have to topcoat too. I don’t think paying someone to do the rust treatment is going to give you a good outcome.
When/if the frame rusts away, you can always replace the frame. Might be the same amount of work in the end as applying rust prevention/converters
for years
.
oh yeah, you don’t remove all the rust - Corroseal doesn’t work on clean metal. Just remove the loose rust.
I’m a bit surprised you’ve got serious rust in Colorado. Must not have been a Colorado car?
![]() 08/19/2020 at 01:03 |
|
Is Toyota still replacing frames on Tundras & Tacomas ? I thought that window closed more than a few years ago.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 02:01 |
|
I use Hirsch Miracle Paint, serious stuff. You can layer fiberglass in it too.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 02:02 |
|
I use Hirsch Miracle Paint, serious stuff. You can layer fiberglass in it too. You don’t have to clean it up all the way either. Amazing stuff, you can just coat things or use it to fill holes with fiberglass , do not get it on your skin!
![]() 08/19/2020 at 07:19 |
|
Never heard of this stuff. Seems to be very similar to Por-15. Pretty cool thanks.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 07:20 |
|
I would thin k you’d want to get rid of the loose chunks of rust and then spray it with a converter and then top coat. There is no easy way to get rid of rust, it all takes time and effort.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 08:38 |
|
CDOT started using MgCl liquid deicer on the roads about 20 years ago. At least it’s not a gravel/salt dry mix that adds to the paint chipping process. But undercarriage rust is a thing here now.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 11:59 |
|
Grab some phosphoric acid from your local hardware store. If it’s just surface rust, spray it on and forget about it. It’ll turn white, but shouldn’t rust again.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 12:17 |
|
It’s way tougher than Por, that shit will not come off, don’t get it on you!
![]() 08/19/2020 at 12:18 |
|
This looks to be the same as POR15 in every way, neat
![]() 08/19/2020 at 12:31 |
|
No it’s a lot better, the guy in the video is an expert Merc mechanic and former bush pilot (even in Papua New Guinea ) , friend of my dad. If says to use something, use it. He has no interest in shit products, he knows his stuff.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 12:40 |
|
Yeah the only way I’ve ever gotten Por-15 off is with time.
You can fiberglass with Por-15 too.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:40 |
|
It’s a Colorado car, but it’s also a 2000 Tundra frame, and those rust, period. There is no cutting required now, as it is all on the surface. I just want to protect it for future. I’ll check Corroseal!
Edit - it seems Corroseal is a converter and a primer, but you still need some sort of a top coat for future.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:40 |
|
I’m doing research now, never heard of it before.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:44 |
|
Yeah, that is what I fear the most. Scrapping, prepping, coating... it just takes time and effort and I was really hoping to find someone to do it.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:47 |
|
Quick research shows that it isn’t protection from rust for future. It basically acts as the prep coat, then you still have to apply some top coat on your frame.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:48 |
|
I’ve seen people on forums get them recently, but the test is “screwdriver through the frame” and mine isn’t anywhere near that.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 14:54 |
|
A friend of mine did it to his Excursion after he bought it. It took him a few days. He had a needle gun and a small palm sander and face shield. He chipped the bad shit off and hit the rest with rust reformer paint/converter in a can and then went over it with some other spray paint. My dad has a 2000 Tundra and while his frame is basically good, I did fix some rust on his frame. We also had to repair his bed as it rusted through in a couple places. It entailed fabricating new brackets to attach to the frame. It was a huge pain in the ass.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 15:17 |
|
I do have a few spots in the bed - I have a rubber bed mat and I take the dogs swimming almost daily, and some water just ends up sitting... no real solution for that, but I’ll have to visit those spots at the same time I do the frame.
I guess I’ll just have to bite the bullet and do it.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 15:36 |
|
That’s good. Those first gen Tundras are handsome trucks.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 16:24 |
|
My dad had a plastic bedliner in his for 19 years. It was a bad decision. The rust in the bed actually seems like a problem from the factory, from what I could tell. Every rust spot was at the brackets that hold the bed to the frame. It is like they weren’t primed correctly, or something. I was able to cut the spots out and put in patch panels. My dad is a whiz with bondo, and you’d be hard pressed to find the spots we fixed.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 18:49 |
|
Sounds like you’ve never got por15 on you ;)
![]() 08/19/2020 at 19:07 |
|
I did use it inside the trunk of the Mercedes when I pulled a second gas tank out that was in there but I guess my latex gloves held together . My friend had it handy so I grabbed it. I’m sure it’s nasty stuff. I used the Miracle Paint on the Z before I restored the rear end, there were holes in the tailgate where the hatch comes down and water always collects there, common spot. I laid fiberglass across there to plug it up until we replaced the whole cross member and painted. One nasty product is Tuflex, they use it on military ship decks, a non skid epoxy kind of thing. I had a bit of that on my arm until my skin layer fell off. I touched my elbow t o a bulkhead once and it got on me.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 20:05 |
|
I guess I need to crawl under and see if my brackets are good. I only have 2 or 3 spots in the bed, relatively close to the bolts. I just completed 1 out of 4 steps - passenger side. Maybe tomorrow, I’ll do the drivers side, and then crossbars and the diff, and then the bed.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 22:56 |
|
Googled - internet seems +/- on POR-15 and Miracle Paint. I don’t know.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 22:59 |
|
Crap. Too bad. I see amazing rust free 90's cars and trucks here and thought I got to heaven.
ah - but you said CDOT. I don’t do too much driving on state highways. And the snowstorms around here are infrequent.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 23:01 |
|
Yup. Top coat if it sees UV. I hadn’t heard of 415s’s Miracle Paint and internet seems equivocal on POR-15 and Miracle Paint. Both are urethanes. I’ll stick with Corroseal for a while and see how it works long term.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 23:20 |
|
I used Ace Rust Stop. It’s on a frame, so I don’t think I need any UV protection. I hope it lasts 3+ years. I don’t need to be doing this all the time.
![]() 08/19/2020 at 23:29 |
|
I did the same with Corroseal - no topcoat under my Transit. And that’s a
2017!